Collecting societies Chinese Snuff bottles-magical stone pictures!

Over a good many years we have created, though I say it myself, quite an important Snuff Bottle Collection. My wife, thank goodness, shares my interest in these little bottles, but perhaps I should warn you, collecting anything is a bit like a bug, once caught, it is with you for ever and can be quite an obsession!

Have you ever searched for pebbles or shells along the sea shore, selecting them for either colour or shape and found an appeal in handling them, so much so, that you simply could not throw them away? If so, you have the makings of a dedicated collector.

Part of the pleasure of owning these snuff bottles is the tactile appeal found in handling them.

Boundless Possibilities
There is also such a vast and diverse number of collecting possibilities. A collection could be based on any of the great Chinese fine arts and in each field it would be possible to have really important fine examples in this form of miniature works of art.

There are collections based on jade and hard stone carvings, others prefer glass and 'overlay glass', or Chinese porcelain, or enamels and cloisonne, or you might like to base a collection on Paintings.

I can imagine how you find it hard to perceive a collection of snuff bottles based on Chinese paintings but they exist. Remarkable signed landscape scenes and even portraits with superb calligraphy (often poems) have actually been painted on the inside of glass and even stone snuff bottles.

Some collections feature uncarved bottles of rare stones, or lacquer, or amber and ivory. Most collections consist of the collector's favourite subject but include a variety of other treasured bottles. There are collections that use as a theme; animals, or a colour such as 'Imperial yellow', or blue and white, and as there are so many possibilities, no two collections ever look the same.

International Connections
For anyone considering buying snuff bottles I should explain that it is an international pursuit. There is even an 'International Chinese Snuff Bottle Society' with a large and active membership. Having been members over a long period we have found that fellow members are such interesting and friendly people.

There is a bond between a collector that leads to friendship, until we meet in the auction rooms that is! It is well worth joining, as there is a very informative, quarterly magazine, full of good colour photographs. Information is surprisingly, freely shared amongst members and by the specialist dealers. So much can be learned this way, in fact far more than just by studying the many very fine, beautiful books on the subject.

Dangerous Temptations
Most people's first encounter with these snuff bottles is likely to be at antique shops, auctions or antique fairs, otherwise in a museum or perhaps by meeting a collector. Once seen, certain people are tempted when next coming across a bottle to buy, but all too often these first purchases are of very poor quality. Later on, having acquired more knowledge, these first bottles so often prove to be disappointing. They often can turn out to be very costly mistakes. Unfortunately, there are far too many very poor bottles about, some are even brand new, made to cash in from the collecting craze. Even an article like this one can cause someone to go and buy without sufficient knowledge, I do hope not.

My advice is that apart from joining the society, attend some snuff bottle auctions and visit some of the specialist dealers.

When you go to the auction rooms be sure to go on the viewing days, usually one or two days before the sale. The first impression will probably be one of disappointment as there will be lots of poor quality snuff bottles and to see so many all lying down, behind glass, is not the best way of presenting them.

Be sure to select a few that appeal to you and ask to inspect them. You will then be given a chance to handle some, and that is when the magic can begin. I do not know how to explain what happens, but there is something of a tactile pleasure that is only obtained from handling a good piece.

Our Collection
I should point out that our first bottle did not immediately grab my attention. Surrounded by many beautiful and more colourful snuff bottles of all shapes and sizes in a dealers display cabinet, this brown and beige coloured bottle looked rather drab. Eventually, I came round to inspect it and before too long I knew that I had to buy it.

Only another collector can fully appreciate that overpowering urge that comes over one, it is the closest feeling to that of love at first sight. I have been told that one's pupils tend to enlarge, and this is one of the signs that dealers watch out for, and as collectors, of course, we always try desperately to camouflage our interest. This snuff bottle was purchased, which is still a favourite, and it has formed the basis of our collection.

Our collection included many types of snuff bottles but features mostly hard stones, known as 'Picture Agates', each one of these being a unique piece, as there can never be two alike. To fully appreciate these snuff bottles I need to tell you more about how a stone bottle was made. All good early snuff bottles were made to be used and they needed to be small, yet capable of holding plenty of snuff, not too heavy as they were carried on their person, often in the sleeve. All these bottles were designed to feel comfortable in the hand and were sealed with a cork, to keep the snuff at its best.

In Europe hinged boxes were used but perhaps the humidity in China caused them to prefer bottles with corks. All snuff bottles have a stopper on to which a cork is fixed, and at the other end of the cork is an ivory spoon. These stoppers rarely matched the bottles other than in size and shape. It was a matter of personal choice as to what type and colour was considered best to go with the snuff bottle.

Well Hollowed Bottles
Stone bottles were carved in a large variety of shapes but always with a fairly small opening in the neck normally about 5mm in diameter. Just imagine a lump of quartz rock that is quite impossible to scratch even with your stainless steel penknife, yet in the 18th century this was carved into a bulbous shaped bottle.

Next it was drilled through the neck and hollowed out through this small hole, so that even difficult areas such as the shoulders of the bottle are really thin. Fine bottles are so well hollowed that they look more like blown glass, and are aptly described as 'Eggshell Thin'. Should you place them in a bowl of water they will trap enough air to float.

Although I have mentioned that drilling was used, the information available about the manufacturing methods is incredible, as the drill and cutting discs were foot operated 'Heath Robinson' affairs. However I do believe after many years experience, they acquired more control and feel than is possible with modern electronic equipment (essential in working on jade as certain parts of the stone can easily fracture whilst other areas are very hard).

Most of the carving was achieved by grinding with jade, gem stone, sand and other abrasive particles. First by drilling and then hollowing out by carefully grinding away with special file-like tools. These tools were made by hammering metal shapes over the abrasive particles that once embedded, were easily bent to reach the most awkward parts.

The Chinese appreciated these wonderful stone snuff bottles and they were fashioned from many types of stone, the purity of the material, particularly the jade being highly prized. The chalcedony or quartz bottles once 'Eggshell thin' show up remarkable markings formed from the formation of the crystals.

From Flaws to Pictures
Everyone I am sure can appreciate such bottles, as the lovely shapes and purity of the stone just cannot fail to impress. What I find even more fascinating is the amazing way they deliberately, brilliantly took advantage of flaws and inclusions often present in the stones.

Most quartz and jade stones have an outer layer of a different colour, particularly the pebbles from the riverbeds. They also have faults and flaws plus other coloured material, often deep in the stone. Sometimes these can be very thin skin-like inclusions, in others large blobs are found.

The problem is no one knows just what is in the rock until, as the cuts are made, the secrets of the stone are revealed. It is with this type of material that 'Picture agates' are made. The best of these incredible snuff bottles look as if the inclusion, that forms the image, has appeared in just the right place as if to order!

There are different types of work within this group of bottles and the first ones are what we call 'Cameo' carvings. These take advantage of an outer skin or a blob type of inclusion; they can be quite thick and are carved in relief. Another type is called 'Shadow Agates' and these take advantage of markings in the bottle where, with the help of a little carving, an image is created. Lastly, the most fascinating ones are called 'Silhouette Agates' but in this group no apparent carving is required. The image is achieved mainly by the angle and choice of shape, as well as the size and position of the bottle to be formed out of the rock. These bottles have to be seen to be believed.

What is really mind blowing to me is the fact that some of these bottles have pictures on both sides!

Sadly, few of them were signed. We only know that there was a certain school of carvers known as the 'Suzhou School'. Their works are easily recognised by the style and quality of the carving, plus the fact that they make use of every mark in the stone to form the picture. They are amazing bottles when good, but there are later works that tend to look too stiff and the carving lacks the more fluid artistic touch of the master carvers. Unfortunately, hardly any of these bottles are really well hollowed.

Our First Snuff Bottle
So to describe my first purchase, this was a 'Shadow Agate picture bottle' involving a little carving, and very well hollowed. It is a most appropriate subject and colour for a Snuff Bottle because the russet inclusions have been used to show 'Putai Ho-Shang'. He is always depicted as a very corpulent man with a bare chest and abdomen and he is the patron saint of tobacconists. In this bottle he appears surprised by a bat whilst sitting below some tobacco leaves. The bat to the Chinese is a good luck symbol. You can see how easily he appears, nicely placed within the bottle yet only his head and a suggestion of his hand have been carved. (See the photograph by using the link at the bottom of this article).

We owned a number of 'Picture Agates' and to illustrate the different types described, the photograph of the duck with lingzhi fungus in its beak is a good 'Silhouette' example. Incidentally, the fungus is a symbol for wishing long life. This bottle is very unusual as there is a recess carved originally to create the image that serves as a built in dish. (See the photograph by using the link at the bottom of this article).

Lastly, a superb bottle of fishes with pictures on both sides: the pair of fishes are 'cameo' carved and to the Chinese represent fidelity and happy conjugal rights in marriage. On the other side a fish and aquatic plants make use of every mark in the stone, all this on a well shaped bottle that is very well hollowed. All these bottles illustrated were made between 1750 and 1860. (See the photograph by using the link at the bottom of this article).

Assesssment
To effectively judge hard stone carvings, the first consideration should be concerned with the overall artistic impression. You need to be satisfied that the work looks well composed and well positioned and that the images formed are flowing rather than stiff and awkward. The next stage is to have a closer look at the technical skills. When I look at a cameo type of carving I study the shape and finish of the background, close to the edge of the carving. On poorer bottles this can be indented, uneven and not so well polished as the rest. Really fine examples look as if the raised cameo part has simply been glued onto a beautifully formed bottle. Engraved work at its best is very precise and provides the detail. When closely looking at a poor bottle the engraved parts can look very crude.

Beware, amazing glass imitation stone bottles exist. To check for these use a magnifying glass and look for tiny bubbles or pin size holes on the surface. As a last resort if still in doubt, a penknife will easily scratch the base if it is glass, whereas a stone will not be marked.

In evaluating the value of all artwork a careful check for any damage is essential. With stone bottles the following points should help. Firstly, assess how well the bottle has been hollowed by holding it up to the light. Inspect the stone from all angles in the light and with light from behind. If the stone is cracked it will be visible often as a star shape from the point of impact. Some stones have natural flaws that are not cracks. I then have a good look at the foot rim and the neck of the bottle, as these areas are the most susceptible to damage. If none is apparent I consider the proportions to make sure neither has been ground down to remove a chip.

When inspecting the neck as viewed looking down into the bottle the top surface should be concave, not flat. Bottles that have had the neck repaired to remove any damage are always flat, and you can be sure no longer original.

Snuff Bottles Were Used
There is one other criterion that I personally believe is important. Most of the best stone bottles were made between 1750 and 1860, although many poor bottles have been made since then, right up to the present day. These late bottles were not really made for use, and some are referred to as 'Cabinet Pieces' and can fairly easily be identified. They are poorly hollowed, if at all. Some just have a drilled hole in them and so they feel far too heavy. They also tend to be very showy in choice of materials, with impractical rather high and sharp carving that feels most uncomfortable in the hand. There are others so delicately carved that one instinctively knows that they could not survive actual use. It is only possible to make these judgements by comparison. Experience is needed and takes time to acquire.

Small is Beautiful
There are advantages in collecting very small items as they are not too obtrusive and can easily be locked away. This is very important if your partner does not share your interest! They can also make a beautiful display without completely disrupting your home.

Try to be certain that you really are enthusiastic about collecting before you buy one. Once you place one in your home and it looks so small and appealing, it is only a matter of time before you will come to the conclusion that a little group of bottles will look so much better. This tends to play on one's mind and that is how we all get hooked!

Dangerous plants and your cat and dog

You can do many things to keep your cats or dogs from injury, but an inconspicuous danger can still in the House-your plants and foods.

Curious pets can take a taste of any installation. A pet feel the need for self-medicate (as cats eat grass), and so the factory in a pool might tempt them, or they can just be curious. Despite being toxic taste some plants well (for instance, the taste of a berry is no indication of its security, as some berries can taste fine but be extremely dangerous).

It is also no guarantee If a plant is edible by humans. Many plants can be toxic to pets, even completely safe for humans. For example, the onion very toxic to cats. Also, the quantities, to pet animals must eat much affected less than we should eat, because of their small size.

Although many houseplants are completely safe, many do not, and it is necessary to be aware of what those to avoid.

Cats must avoid entirely: Chinese evegreen, crotons, peace lillies, bulbs, lily spider, rubber plant, iris, Evergreen, red susan, Belladonna, Daffodil (pear and installations), tobacco (such as ashtray anode butts), rhododendron, asparagus fern, Rhubarb, Danish Ivy and other ivys, tulip plants and bulbs, lily of the valley, Easter lily, aloe vera, holly, Oriental lily, chrysanthemum, jasmine, java beans, potatoes, poppy plants, fungi, umbrella, honeysuckle, misteltenen, amaryllis bulbs, apple seeds, sweet pea, poinsettia, yews (all types), tiger lily, baby's breath, calendula, morning glory, philodendron, eggplant, and eucalyptus, which may include a wide range of plants in your home and dining Chamber.

Dogs must be kept away from (among others): Croton, apricot, Chinese evergreen, Daffodil, Easter lilly, jasmine, baby's breath, philodendron, potato, Hydrangea, poinsettia, apple, mushrooms, corn plant, honeysuckle, fungi, mountain laurel, mother-in-law's tongue, walnuts and many nuts, apple, PEAR seeds, aloe, holly, umbrella plantGreen potatoes (especially skins), lily Valley, virginia creeper, peace lily, jade, hyacinth, Wisteria, iris, Plum, peach, apricot, cherry, mines, schefflera, Almond, black-eyed susan, fig, Danish Ivy, tomato plants (and green tomatoes), and yews. These will include a wide range of plants in your House and larder.

Note that this list is not complete. If you are in doubt about any plants, research in your library or on the Internet, consult a knowledgeable friends or if all else fails, get rid of the item.

Even if you value really a favorite plant, get your dog or cat first. If any installation, creating a health problem, it is an easy choice what you must do, and you can make the right decision for your pets welfare.

Gardening Tips-key elements to create a Bonsai

Offering a refined good Bonsai is a beautiful pastime, one can practice at home without much strain or the expense. If you are an ardent lover of Bonsai varieties of trees, it's time to learn the basics of making bonsai prior directly jump into the field in a hurry. Knowledge of the appropriate varieties techniques for trimming leaves and buds, fertilizing practices, irrigation and soil selection process needed to be a triumphant Bonsai Augustos.

The selection of the installation

Fundamental in making bonsai begins at the moment when one person chooses the right niceties of plant protection products on the market. It is a good piece of news for all cultivators, almost any number of plants are suitable for this kind of amateur cultivation. Most often, however, choose the cultivators plants such as Ficus, figs, Cedar, Elm, Mango tree, Cedar and Jade plant. Seeds of plants are also useful in connection with Bonsai, in addition to the grafted and potted plants. It is advisable to plant Bonsai plant in a pot that has at least four-inch height and 6-inch (305 mm) radius. Fix plant inside the earth filled the pool after cropping roots angularly.

Selection of soils

At the same time, fundamental in trying to make bonsai, we must introduce special interest to choose apt variety soil. It should not be too stopper or also dry. Fertile soil would, of course, be more useful to compare, of varieties produced by mixing together the number of dung. Prepare soil by mixing 3 parts of a half-burnt clay, 3 parts blade mould with two parts of coarse sand. Add a handful of pests compost or organic compost will be more fruitful. Apply a spoonful fertilizer twice a month would be enough for easy growth. Cow manure can also be used during the process of family planning policy.

Beware of pests

Infestation is common on Bonsai range of plants. However, proper care thwart effectively with in the invaders. Pay special attention to the spider mites, which positively enjoy low humidity of indoor environment and destroy your plants. Spider Mites are not visible to the naked eye, but their presence can be noted by the appearance of the tray between blades. It can be solved by common insecticides. Fungus gnats can also be found in and around compost of bonsai. If the bonsai compost is found to be too wet all the time, consider a change in your irrigation practices. Fungus gnats are almost always indoors, when moss growing on the surface of nature that are not removed beforehand. Ensure adequate and appropriate, sunlight on the installation where you just place it attract people.

Gollum Jade or New Portulacea Succulent plants for dry gardens or easy Houseplants

Succulent Drought Tolerant Plants for Dry Gardens and Easy Houseplants: Crassula Portulacea Spoon Jade aka Gollum Plant or a Fingers is Easy to Grow

Succulent plants are great choices for dry gardens. These plants are easy to grow in hot dry areas and also make great houseplants. One of my favorites is named crassula portulacea, commonly called Horseshoe or Spoon Jade. Recently they've been called Gollum Fingers because their dark green leaves look like fingers with reddish tips. These plants can take full sun to light shade. They are happy indoors or outdoors.

Water-wise succulent plants like heat and sun whether you grow them indoors or in the yard. They can take up to 6 hours of sun a day. If they develop yellow or brown spots on the leaves, it means they need a nice soak. Grown in pots they will remain small and are often used for bonsai. They will grow slowly and can be trimmed into the shape of trees. In the ground they will eventually reach a height of 4 to 5 feet tall. Older plants take on an otherworldly, gnarled look.

I love succulents because they are easy to grow and care-free. They are great if you don't have time to fuss over a plant. Crassula happily oblige and even produce blooms in later winter. They produce flower clusters that look like tiny bouquets of daisies. Bloom color can range from light to dark pink, some have a salmon/orange tint.

These flowering shrubs are called succulent plants because they store their water in their trunks, stalks and leaves. This allows them to get by with little water. All that stored water can make them susceptible to rot if they sit in a pool of wet dirt. Let the soil dry out between watering to keep them happy. Crassula are best grown in USDA Zones 9b – 11. Normally, mine are able to take a light frost for a few hours. This year we had freezing nights for a few days in a row and the top 1/3 of my plants became frozen and brown. The stalks that survived are now sprouting new leafs. They need over head protection in winter if you are in a cold area. They also have a better chance of surviving frost if the plants have been kept on the dry side.

Xeriscaping with drought-tolerant cactus and succulent plants has become popular out here in the southwest where we sometimes have water rationing and shortages. I've got a little corner of the garden which I'd like to look like an underwater grotto. That's a tall order here in Los Angeles we don't get a lot of rain, so I'm level things it with succulents. I think Neptune would be proud. Visit my website http://www.theGardenPages.com two to see photos. These succulent plants add a dramatic touch and remind me of some sort of sea plant or coral. Spoon Jade Crassula portulacea plants, or are a unique, easy and reliable addition to any water-wise garden.

Growing a Jade Plant Indoors

Because they are easy to grow and very tolerant of a range of conditions, is jade plants an ideal indoor plant grows. They grow well in pots and happiest in hot, dry conditions. They can tolerate long periods of dryness due to their succulent qualities and they require very little fertilizer.

These plants will live for many years and can grow up to five metres high, even when indoors. They are the perfect planting for the large, empty corner of a room with dark green leaves are often borders in red. When the flower they have clusters of pink or white flowers that are star-shaped, and these provide a nice screen.

If you want to prevent the disease and insect attacks, they require some maintenance, like any other plants.

If the Earth is allowed to remain dry for a long period, they will suffer leaf drop. In contrast, as well as, if they get wet feet they develop root rot. The ground must be kept moist during the warmer part of the year, and there should be longer intervals between waterings in the cooler months.

As long as these plants have good draining soil and a moderate and regular amount of water, they will thrive. The best land for them is cactus mix, which has been added to the organic material. A good balance is 1 part sphagnum peat moss to 3 parts coarse sand.

Jade plants should be exposed to full sun, near a South facing window for periods of four hours or perhaps more. Ensure that the temperature is too high, even though-the best area is between 65-75 degrees F (18-24 degrees C). Jade copes well with NIGHT time temperatures around 50 degrees F (10 degrees C). If the plants begin to show browning of leaves should be moved to a place where it will have less direct heat from the Sun.

The feeding requirements of the jade plant is simple. It will only require some liquid fertilizer every three to four months. A standard fertilizers will be fine. Overgrowth is not common in jade plants and they have nothing against not their roots being crowded. It is a good idea, but to leave any feeding until after the winter when the plant is dormant.

Spider mites, Mealybugs and enjoy snacking on many popular houseplants and jade plants are no exception. Mealy bugs can be banished is easy-just wipe the blade with an alcohol-soaked cloth. Spider Mites requires a little more effort, but they can be swept away when they are obvious or sprinkled if required.

Dryer sheets with a wet cloth to remove any build up of dust is beneficial for the plant, as it will help the plant to "breathe" through their pores, resulting in effective transpiration. Dead leaves should also be cropped, to keep the plant looking healthy and minimise disease.

Growing a nice Jade plant

Jade plants provides a wonderful opportunity for indoor home gardening. Because there is a large and easily grown in an open container, cultivates the ideal in hot, dry environment. Jade plants are succulents and they can tolerate lower irrigation conditions well and they do not require much fertilizer either.

These plants can live in a very long time and can reach up to five feet in height, even while growing indoors. They have dark green leave and some have a reddish trim, they make a perfect choice for a Shrub or a tree for a large, empty container. Jade plants producing beautiful clusters of star-shaped white or pink colored flowers that will add a splash of color in place.

As with other installations require jade plants some basic care in order to maintain a bug free and healthy plant.

Leaf drop can occur if the Earth is becoming excessively dry for a long period of time, but they are prone to root rot, if they are over watered. Damp soil that is maintained is OK, when the weather is warmer, as in the spring and summer. To allow the soil to dry slightly between watering is recommended in winter.

Make sure your plants have optimal soil drainage and moderate, regular watering will help get the correct balance for your plant. This can be achieved by using Cactus soil mixed organic material such as peat moss or coarse sand.

Make sure that these plants have very bright sunlight with a window facing South of exposure. The plant will Enjoy it and be grateful for four hours and sometimes more. Jade plants thrive best when temps between 65-75 ° F, but have no problems with NIGHT temps around 50 ° F to see the blade around the edges, but browning. Move the installation to a less direct sunlight position, if you notice this happening.

Feeding jade plant is quite easy. Just add some liquid fertilizer, all three or four months is enough. A typical 10/10/10 NPK mixture with certain micro-nutrients such as magnesium, works very well. You don't have to worry about overgrowth with these plants, since they are very tolerant have root bound conditions. Holding the feeding during the dormant winter is recommended.

If you notice any pests such as mealy bugs or spiders mites wipe the blade with a soft cloth or a cotton swab soaked in alcohol. Spider Mites are a little harder to handle, but can be physically brushed or sprayed away from, if it is necessary.

Be sure to keep the blades dust free using an occasional wipe with a damp soft cloth, even if you do not see any error. This will help the pores of the site in order to do their work and turn through a bad gas they absorb and even allow the exchange of CO2 and oxygen. Keep dead leaves cut is also required.

Growing indoor Bonsai trees

This is because a true gardening art form, in order to make bonsai growing work, you must have work and artistic creativity, plus patience, discipline and knowledge. Originally from China, and later extending to Japan where it has taken root and blossomed, the requirements for bonsai is not much, as some people imagine. The higher levels require more "masterful" knowledge; but bonsai is also one of the most convenient forms for gardening buffs to bybøre.

It can take up bonsai even without sufficient land space. Bonsai suits, who live in apartments and condominiums with only a balcony to the garden in. but most bonsai trees are not adapted to grow indoors. This is a common misconception that although you can grow almost all types of tree species as bonsai, only a few species can be grown "indoors." Even then it is not their natural behaviour grow indoors, but these few species can better tolerate indoor conditions in relation to most of the other.

As a general rule, trees grow in temperate climates need a rest period and in heat an indoor environment, they will die. A you see to be photographed indoor is almost always juveniles. On the other hand, trees from tropical areas often from forests with high canopies to shade the forest floor. they are better able to tolerate lower light conditions and modular temperature indoors. Tropical/Subtropical trees is so often the only choice for indoor bonsai trees.

Some bonsai tree species that can be grown Indoors is:

* Serissa foetida

* Adenium Obessum

* Ficus Benjamina

* Holiday Cactus (Schlumbegera)

* Jade Plant (New ovata)

* Chinese Elm (Ulmus parvifolia)

* Olive family species

* Brush Cherry (Eugenia mytrifolia)

* Schefflera arboricola

* Pomegranate (Punica sp)

* Azalea (Rhododendron sp)

* Chinese Sweetplum (Sageretia thea)

Bonsai have been cultivated indoors with only artificial light as their light source. Most species adapt well to the artificial light and will flourish even in the winter period. Examples of this are Serissa and Punica, while Chinese Elm and brush Cherry enters dormancy in winter. It is a good practice to take trees out in the course of the summer, which they want to take advantage of the Sun's rays, rather than keep feeding artificial light. Fluorescent light measuring about a meter long are typically used to give the artificial lighting.

Good air circulation in and around the pot is very beneficial for the plant. Small fans installed above lighting and running at low speed is appropriate. In fact, you can combine a "mini" greenhouse gases with a sufficiently large, fluorescent light and proper ventilation, like you see in aquariums. The leaves of bonsai should be as close as possible in the fluorescent unit without getting flamed the light, because the brightness falls quickly away the additional bonsai is from lighting. Best lighting options, consult an aquarium specialist near you; These guys often have good knowledge about how to grow aquatic tropical plants, which can be used for growing bonsai as well as.

Soil and feeding concerns, try to get soilless mix, because these are the easiest to handle, and regardless of nutritional deficiencies can be remedied with suitable mixtures of peat or bark. A typical bonsai soil composition is one-third sand, one third of peat and a third regular soil. Or you can try Akadama. Akadama soil and other pumice based often regarded as the best "land", because they are porous and absorb water, while still being able to drain easily water.

The most important thing to remember for the soil, is how deep the water can penetrate and how well it drains away. Typically requires a lot of small trees be watered daily, while the larger trees can be watered 2-3 times a week. One advantage with the Akadama soil, is you can tell if the soil is moist or not by looking at it. If it is damp, is dark in color and vice versa is dry.